What about sewing machine oil?
This is not motor oil that you use for your car. It is clear white oil. Be sure to use the proper oil. Refer to your owners manual for the proper spots to oil. Some of the older machines, have these areas marked. Run stitches on some scrape fabric before you tackle your project. This allows oil to escape on to the scrapes, if it's going to, instead of the project you are working on.
Oiling the machine not only lubricates your moving parts, to prevent wear. It reduces the potential for corrosion (rust). Rust forms rapidly with any dampness, even just the humidity in the air. Surface rust can act just like loose sand grain in your machine, and create excess wear.
What needles should I use?
There's a huge range of needles to choose from these days. But the general rules for usage still hold true. Use sharp points for woven fabrics, ball-point needles for knits and universal points for both wovens and knits. Needle sizes are usually marked with European and American numbers, with the European number first. Needle sizes range from 60/8 (finest) to 120/19 (thickest).
Ball-point/stretch needles have a slightly rounded tip that goes between the threads of a knit fabric--available in sizes 70/10 through 100/16.
Sharp (Microtex) needles have a sharp point to pierce the threads of woven fabric--good for heirloom sewing and quilt piecing. Available in sizes 60/8 through 90/14.
Universal needle points are slightly rounded for use with knit fabrics, yet sharp enough for wovens--available in sizes 60/8 through 120/19.
Denim/jeans needles have an extra-sharp point and stiff shank for stitching denim, heavy faux leather and other densely woven fabrics. Available in sizes 70/10 through 110/18.
Leather needles have a wedge-shaped point to penetrate leather, suede, heavy faux leather and nonwoven fabrics--available in sizes 80/12 through 110/18.
Machine-embroidery needles are designed to prevent thread shredding and breakage when sewing dense designs with rayon, metallic and other embroidery threads. Available in sizes 75/11 through 90/14.
Metallic needles feature a longer eye, fine shaft and sharp point to eliminate thread breakage, shredding and skipped stitches. They also work well with monofilament threads. Also known as Metallica, Metafil and Metallic Machine Embroidery--available in sizes 70/10 through 90/14.
Quilting needles have a sharp tapered point to sew through thick layers and across seams--available in sizes 75/11 through 90/14.
Topstitch needles have an extra-sharp point, larger eye and groove to accommodate top-stitching thread. Available in sizes 80/12 through 100/16.
I'm have stitching problems. How do I diagnose the issue?
If the stitches are looping on the fabric underside it's possible the machine is threaded incorrectly. Remove the thread completely and rethread the machine. Be sure to use good quality thread--don't buy the cheapest you can find. A good thread will help your machine perform better and your projects last longer.
Poor stitch quality can be caused by the needle. Make sure you're using a new needle that's right for the job. Many times machines are taken in for repairs and all they need is a new needle. If you can't remember the last time you changed the needle--it's past time. Needles should be changed at least every eight hours of sewing.
When inserting a new needle, make sure the flat side of the needle faces away from the bobbin area. For example, if your machine has a front-loading bobbin, the flat side of the needle faces the back of the machine. If your machine has a side-loading bobbin, the flat side faces the right side of the machine. Some older sergers require special needles that don't have a flat side. Refer to your owner's manual to properly install a serger needle.
Thread that shreds or breaks can often be traced back to the needle. Use a good thread and make sure the needle eye is large enough for the thread type. Also use the right type of needle for the fabric; see above.
What is basic machine maintenance and how (and how often) do I perform it?
Start by cleaning the lint from your machine. Remove the throat-plate, using the screwdriver if necessary. Brush out all visible lint with the brush. Many people prefer to use canned air--there is some controversy as to the value-versus-harm when using canned air. Some believe it causes condensation on the machine interior, thus creating an environment for rust. Also, lint can be forced into the machine rather than blown out. To avoid both situations, spray canned air at an angle to the parts you're cleaning and keep the nozzle several inches away from the area to avoid condensation; or simply vacuum the lint out.
Once the machine is free of lint, lubricate it with oil. Most machines should be oiled at least every six months -- three months for sergers. Be sure to follow the oiling schedule outlined in your owner's manual. Only use oil specifically made for sewing machines -- don't use WD40 or other lubricants; they can harm your machine. Refer to your owner's manual for oiling locations -- one drop of oil is enough in any spot.
Some of the newer sewing machines don't require lubricating, so refer to your owner's manual to see if it's necessary. If you own a Singer Featherweight or other old machine, take it to a service professional every couple of years to have the motor bushings greased.
Take your machine to be serviced about every two years. Have the service professional perform a basic service, which includes cleaning, oiling, balancing the tension and a quick once-over of the machine. They should provide a stitch-out of both straight and zigzag stitches to show the tension balance. For sergers you should receive a four-thread stitch-out and a rolled-hem stitchout (leave the necessary plate and foot for the mechanic to use).
Have a complete sewing machine service every three to five years, depending on use. A complete service includes additional checks beyond the basic service. Sergers should get a complete service every three years.
Sewing Machine FAQ
When looking at machines for purchase, it is important to sew on the machine yourself, in fact, you should insist on it. You should plan ahead, and when you go to the sewing machine store, know the kind of things you are interested in doing. Take pieces of fabric, or whatever you plan to sew on. Do not let the sales rep do the sewing on your fabrics.
1) Explain to the sales rep what you are interested in, what the problems are with your current machine (if any?).
2) If the sales rep immediately takes to the most expensive machine in the store and this was not your intent, be firm and insist upon seeing a machine more in your price range. You may well end purchasing a machine that is outside your price range, but that should be your decision and not that of the sales rep.
3) Let the sales rep give you a demonstration, make sure that when you sit down you can see what the sales rep is doing. Sometimes the sales reps have a canned demonstration and they go to fast, they make it flashy and impressive, but the demo may be more technique rather than what the machine is capable of doing.
4) Ask your questions and then ask to sew on the machine yourself. If you do not have fabric pieces, ask to test sew on real fabric, not the stiff demo cloth that most sales reps use. Your own swatches are better because, you can carry the same fabric around to the different shops, and truly have an accurate comparison.
5) If you try something on a fabric (your own) and it does not work properly, for example using a machine with a lot of embroidery stitches, you generally have to stiffen the fabric, use a tear-away type of product. Decorative stitches generally look nicer using 100% cotton thread and not necessarily as nice using cotton-wrapped thread. Check out the thread. top of page
6) Contrary to what a sales rep may say, swear to, etc. There's no such thing as a sewing machine That has an automatic tension adjustment. Remember: when using a regular sewing machine (as opposed to a serger) there is thread on top of the seam (your top thread - when threaded goes through tension system of some kind) and the bobbin thread. In machines with a bobbin case, the tension is still adjusted by adjusting that little bitty screw on the side of the bobbin, there is no one, etc. that jumps out and automatically adjusts this little screw. You must. The machines without a bobbin case (so-called drop-in bobbins), also have a tension adjusting device. There may be some "automatic" mechanism to adjust the top tension.
7) The stitching quality of a particular machine depends on a number of things (a) the machine, (b) needles, (c) thread, (d) tension, (e) sewing technique, and (f) the operator. All of these items are important. A good machine is wonderful and can make sewing more rewarding. You can hear it and see the results, between a good machine and not so good machine.
8) If you are looking at the high end machine, for example Elna or Pfaff , be aware that both companies have a line of machines that are of a different quality than there top line. Top line of Elna is made in Switzerland, top line of Pfaff is Germany. The other line is either made in Japan or China (not that these are necessarily bad, but they are not the top of the line, the line that gives the brand its reputation). For example, New Home is a Japanese built machine, they may have other lines that are built in either Taiwan or Korea. When it comes to sergers by these companies, it is most likely their sergers are made in either Japan or Germany/Switzerland, but for sergers, this is okay. The original home-use sergers came from Japan, they had the original technology. top of page
What about used machines?
You may be able to get a used machine in very good condition. There are some users who trade-in machines because they don't have all the latest fancy gadgets, etc. Most shops will make sure that the used machines are in tip-top shape for selling. Make a list of your requirements and your questions before going to a store, so that you won't get caught up in the heat of the moment and buy something that does way more than you need it to or forget to ask something that could turn out to be important. Be sure that the store will service the machine as well as sell it. Consumer Reports recommends not purchasing an extended warranty from the store - they say it's one of the biggest wastes of $. Many major credit cards offer an extended warranty on purchases made with them. And finally, don't be afraid to ask what may seem to the salesperson to be a silly question. A sewing machine is a major investment and you have a right to have every t crossed and every i dotted before you shell out money. top of page
More suggestions:
1. You have to feel comfortable using it. If you think you have to fight with the machine, your sewing will suffer (and dwindle)
2. You tend to get what you pay for. But don't feel you have to buy the top of the line. You can get very good machines starting at 300-400$. Going the cheapest way may not be the best.
3. Try contacting prospective dealerships ahead and find out what their 'quieter' times are during the week. By visiting them at 'slow' periods, you have a better chance of getting them to spend time with you.
4. In addition to bringing your own fabric (recommended pre-washed, ready to sew, just like the real thing), try to get some 'play' time with the machine(s). Your dealer may let you play for as long as you want.
5. Test drive on some real applications: buttonholes (that's a real test!), thick layers, thin or sheer fabrics, vinyl, 1/4 in piecing, you name it.
6. For 4 and 5, bring your own thread. You'd be surprised how many dealers only have 'rayon embroidery' to thread their machines with, because that's what they use to demo the embroidery stitches (catchy marketing), because that's what they like to show off (selling a reliable buttonhole is not exactly 'sexy'). Don't let the dealer tell you that the machine really stitches well, it's the flimsy thread that's failing it... This will give you a chance to test drive bobbin winding, insertion/removal in addition to upper threading.
This seems like a lot to go through to by a machine. But one can't spend $1500 without convincing him/herself it's on an educated guess at least... And if you enjoy sewing, then it's all play. top of page
A sewer comments:
I found the best method to buy a new machine is go to the store and try it out. I have always found the salespeople eager to show how the machine works. In fact, a sales person just spent over an hour yesterday showing me machines. I ended up buying a New Home 8000. I wouldn't suggest any of the electronic machines by Singer as they like to be repaired a lot. However, their basic machines are alright. I don't know of where to buy used in your area but suggest looking in the phone book as many places will take used machines in trade, re-condition them and then re-sell them. I wouldn't suggest mail order as you don't have easy access to service. top of page
A sewer comments:
When I bought my electronic machine, I also checked out several.
--and I finally figured it out--all of these computerized machines can
do the SAME THINGS. They ALL have preset stitch length and width that
you can override. They ALL let you stop with the needle up or down. They
ALL can automatically set tension for different fabrics. These similarities
are not so obvious when you are shopping, since you don't know the machines
that well, but they are there. Test it out--write down a list of the stuff
that the first machine does, and ask the various salespeople if their
machine does it too.
Moral: all these machines are Good Machines. They all do what they say they will. None of them are lemons. Some cost a lot more, and you may decide that having a great dealer is worth the extra money (I have only been back to my dealer once, to get an extra presser foot, so it wouldn't be worth it for me). Free classes may be worth it -- although they ain't free if you pay more for the machine!
So now I have boiled down "shopping for a machine" to three rules:
1. Don't buy a sewing machine in a department store (like Sears)
2. Don't buy a sewing machine that is "on sale" for a limited time and you have to make a decision right away. (they don't want you to shop around).
3. If you can't afford a good new machine, don't buy a cheap new machine-- at least try to find a good USED machine. (I haven't done this yet but one used Pfaff is worth ten new Kenmores any day :-)
YMMV (your mileage may vary), of course.
top of page | More FAQ (left side of this page)
